SINGAPORE – When Hamilton first graced the Broadway stage in 2015, few could have predicted the seismic impact the Tony Award-winning musical about United States founding father Alexander Hamilton and his involvement in the American Revolution would have beyond theatre.
As the show’s popularity soared, so did the fervent discussions about its style and the merits of donning colonial-era attire on Reddit forums.
These discussions even led to the creation of a fashion collection by Elhoffer Design, a Los Angeles-based apparel company, in 2016. Initially conceived as part of a photo shoot with friends, one particular piece from the “Hamilgown” collection – the Bluecoat Tunic – gained instant fame in the US, prompting a flood of requests and inquiries.
Despite having more than 30 years of experience designing costumes for stage productions such as The Color Purple (2006) and A Streetcar Named Desire (2012), which earned him Tony Award nominations, Hamilton’s costume designer Paul Tazewell admits to never witnessing such an influence of stage attire on real-world fashion, inspiring fashionistas and cosplayers alike.
The 59-year-old was approached by Hamilton’s director Thomas Kail in the winter of 2014.
The design process took roughly 10 months from inception to the first production at The Public Theater in New York, where the show had its start in early 2015. This was followed by adjustments to the designs that made them “more of a Broadway level”, he says.
And for the first time, fans in Singapore will be able to see the costumes up close. Hamilton premieres at Marina Bay Sands’ Sands Theatre on April 19 as part of its International tour, following its staging in Manila in September 2023 and Abu Dhabi in January 2024.
Tazewell says in an e-mail interview with The Straits Times: “I want my costume designs to transport an audience into a believable world and to allow them to be swept away for the two hours that they are watching the production.”
A sumptuous mix of silk dresses and military coats, they were designed to bring viewers back to the tumultuous era of the American Revolution.
Typically, historical accuracy is paramount in costume design, especially for more serious productions. However, Tazewell says this was not the case for the sung-and-rapped-through Hamilton, which boasts a contemporary style of music that draws heavily from hip hop, R&B, pop and soul, choreography and staging.
“It became my priority to suggest 18th-century silhouettes that the audience would recognise but which feel current and stylish, staying in step with the production overall,” he adds.
Due to Hamilton’s fast-paced narrative, quick transitions between characters are crucial. To facilitate this seamless metamorphosis, all actors don a basic parchment-coloured costume as a foundation. This neutral base serves as a visual metaphor for the paper upon which Hamilton’s legacy is written.
As the story progresses, subtle additions of character-specific costume pieces allow the cast to transition from one character to the next, whether it is revolutionary soldiers on the battlefield or aristocratic ladies and gentlemen at a ball.
“These changes must happen seamlessly to stay with the flow of the production,” says Tazewell, who became the first African-American male costume designer to be nominated for a Best Costume Design Oscar for the 2021 musical film West Side Story. His next big-screen project is the much-anticipated two-part musical film Wicked (2024 and 2025).
Crafting costumes that seamlessly blend historical accuracy with contemporary functionality was no small feat for Tazewell. Traditional 18th-century garments like boned corsets and soldier boots, while visually stunning, often lack the flexibility needed for modern stage performances.
He prioritised designing garments that not only captured the essence of the era but also accommodated the rigorous demands of the production’s athletic choreography. Collaborating closely with Hamilton’s choreographer Andy Blankenbuehler, the costumes were tailored with precision to ensure they moved fluidly with the actors’ bodies, allowing for the execution of every movement with grace and ease.
Thomas Jefferson, one of the founding fathers and presidents of America, is also a character in Hamilton, and his costume is said to pay homage to the late American pop star Prince, with its velvet suit and ruffles. However, Tazewell’s inspiration extends beyond musical icons – living in the Big Apple already provides him with a rich tapestry of inspiration.
“I have always found riding the subways and walking through the streets of NYC some of the most inspiring sites and expressions of style. I am often inspired by contemporary fashion, period fashion, art, photography and other cultures in my costume design. I often say to myself, ‘If I were this character, I could definitely see myself wearing this outfit,’” he says.
Tazewell is currently fascinated by the latest advancements in 3D printing and laser cutting in the fashion industry, and their potential to create irregular sculptural forms as well as diverse textures and patterns.
“I had an opportunity to dip my toes into this world during production on Wicked, but I am sure there are many more things that can be done with these tools,” he says.
When it comes to personal style, Tazewell advocates for well-tailored classics complemented by bold, fashion-forward statement pieces with a focus on “high quality construction and fabrication”.
A simple style hack he swears by is opting for monochromatic outfits: “All black can get boring but you can almost never go wrong. I also love all taupe, all pearl grey and all navy. This makes for less time putting together my day’s outfit in the morning.”
Book it/Hamilton
Where: Sands Theatre, Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue
When: April 19 till June 9, 8pm (Tuesdays to Fridays), 2 and 8pm (Saturdays), 1 and 6.30pm (Sundays)
Admission: From $80. A digital ticket lottery known in North America as Ham4Ham is running exclusively on hamiltonmusical.sg for the chance to purchase a pair of tickets for $56. The lottery for the subsequent week’s performances will open weekly at 10am and close at 11.59pm on Wednesdays. Winners will be notified on Thursdays at noon with a one-time-use promo code and purchase link that will expire on Fridays at noon. A limit of one entry per week will be applied.
Info: str.sg/s5Jc
Revolution chic
“What do I wear to watch Hamilton?” is an oft-asked question on Reddit forums. Whether it is channelling King George’s regal flair or the sass of the Schuyler sisters, here are some colonial-esque pieces that you can rock or pair with your everyday attire, without being mistaken for a cosplayer.
Lugato black calf leather military boots, Manolo Blahnik, $1,890
Ruffled Blouse, & Other Stories, $279
Argylle Green Velvet Nehru jacket, Mr Porter, £1,411 (S$2,394)
Printed Cotton Smocked Dress in Beige Meadow, $920
Pinstriped cotton and linen gilet, Giorgio Armani, $1,850
Channel hand-embellished fringe bucket bag, Wardrobe Shop (wardrobeshop.com), US$180 (S$245)
Dolmabahce: The Grand Chandelier earrings in 18K white gold, diamonds, South Sea Keshi and Tahitian pearls, Simone Jewels, $21,800
